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Sailing in Sicily (Part6)

Sailing in Sicily (Part6)

Author: Sandy Keil
Date: 2012-07-25
Wow, that was a stormy night! Followed by an even stormier sail from the island of Salina to Lipari. We had to get back to Lipari today, because our guests are departing by ferry to Naples tomorrow. We had been warned that there was bad weather ahead, but did not think it would be quite this bad. Thunder, lightning, 27 knot wind, huge swells and eventually a mighty downpour, but we are now safely tied up in the Lipari Marina. The joys of sailing!

I keep mentioning the Aeolian islands where we have spent most of our sailing time in this year. The archipelago consists of more than 20 islands, only a few of which are inhabited. The first human settlements date back to 5000 - 3000 BC, and like most of Sicily the islands have been ruled by various conquerors over the centuries. The islands remained undiscovered by tourists until after the Second World War. It was a Roberto Rosselini movie, titled "Stromboli" and filmed on the island of that name, that put the group of volcanic islands on the tourist map. Today the whole archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because it is an "extraordinary example of the volcanic phenomenon still in action".

Stromboli is one of the most active volcanoes in the world and the intermittent explosions of ash and cinder can be seen from miles away. Since ancient times it has been known as the "Lighthouse of the Mediterranean", providing mariners with a beacon to plot their course.

Interestingly, although the islands are physically quite close to each other, they are all very different. Lipari has a definite Venetian feel with pastel coloured, elegant buildings, while Panarea reminds one more of a Greek village with its square whitewashed buildings and blue doors and shutters. Panarea is obviously the hangout of the rich and famous, because prices in the bars, cafes and restaurants are about double than anywhere else. Salina has lovely green vineyards and a thriving wine making industry. The small island Alicudi is so steep that there are no roads and goods are transported by donkeys up steep flights of stairs.